The Princes’ Islands are a collection of nine small islands in the Marmara Sea (Kızıl Adalar or just Adalar in Turkish) in Turkey. They have developed from an isolated place in the Byzantine period to a famous tourist attraction. Most Turkish people choose this place to escape the busy city life for a while. These are the nine islands: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kınalıada, Sedef Island, Yassıada, Sivriada, Kaşık Island, and Tavşan. However, only the first four islands are publicly accessible.
History
The Princes’ Islands were formerly unpopulated and isolated. They are named after the heads of prominent families who were banished there as a consequence of losing favor during the Byzantine and Ottoman periods. They were overseen by Constantinople, and before the end of the 19th century, when modern paddle transportation was introduced to the Marmara Sea, reaching these islands was quite an adventure.
Except for the banished princes, the islands were uninhabited. A few loners seeking isolation used to live there. The Turkish Ottoman name for the archipelago, the Island of Monks (Keşiş Adaları in Turkish), was inspired by them. In the 19th century, the islands became a popular retreat for Istanbul’s privileged population. The Victorian villas and homes are still present on the largest of the Princes’ Islands. Notably, in 1912, there were around 10,000 Greeks and fewer than 1,000 Turks living on the islands.
To Reach Princes’ Islands
The only way to get to Princes’ Islands is by sea. Istanbul ferries or fast ferries are available at various times daily. If you are traveling from the European side, ferries from both Beşiktaş and Eminönü are available. From the Asian side, Kadıköy, Bostancı, Maltepe, and Kartal are the main departure points. Along with regular boats and fast ferries, departures from Bostancı also include private mid-size ship connections to the islands. These private boats are available in winter, too.
If you choose boats, it will take about 1.5 hours from the European side and less than an hour from the Asian side to reach the islands. Fast ferries (Deniz Otobüs in Turkish) are more expensive but offer air conditioning and faster travel. However, they have limited departure times.
The Mavi Marmara ferry service usually heads from Bostancı to Büyükada and Heybeliada and next to Kınalıada and Burgazada. Inside the boat, the names of the islands are not announced. Therefore, carefully read the signs posted on the foreshore to ensure that the island you disembark on is the one you intend to visit. Another option, along with Mavi Marmara, is the city line of ferries (Şehir Hatları in Turkish), which resemble small ships.
Public Transportation
No motorized vehicles are allowed on Princes’ Islands. The only exceptions are special vehicles, such as school buses or ambulances. When visiting these islands, you have three options: walking, renting a bike or scooter, or riding a horse-drawn carriage. Many visitors oppose horse carriages due to concerns about animal welfare and prefer walking or renting bikes. Ultimately, the choice is up to you.
Hotels and Restaurants
You may want to spend a night or two on one of the four main islands, and that’s a great choice. Many hotels are located in Büyükada, so you don’t have to worry about finding accommodation. Keep in mind that Büyükada gets crowded during the summer. Heybeliada also offers convenient hotels, though not as many as Büyükada. Burgazada has a hotel too, but Kınalıada does not have any hotels.
All four main islands feature good restaurants with diverse menus at reasonable prices. Mediterranean, Turkish, Armenian, and Greek cuisines, as well as fast food and seafood, are available.
Büyükada
Of all the Princes’ Islands, Büyükada is the largest and most famous, attracting many tourists. The island covers an area of 5.4 square kilometers and offers plenty of activities, including dining, shopping, walking, hiking, and sightseeing. A list of must-do activities while visiting is included below.
Visit Greek Orphanage
The abandoned and derelict Greek Orphanage (Rum Yetimhanesi) sits on the hill of Büyükada, surrounded by pine trees. This four-story wooden structure is the world’s second-largest wooden building and the largest in Europe.
Built in 1898 by French-Ottoman architect Alexander Vallaury, it was intended to be a luxurious hotel and casino for the Orient Express rail company. However, Sultan Abdul Hamid II banned casinos, and the property was repurposed as an orphanage.
Over 50 years, the orphanage housed around 6,000 Greek children before it was abandoned.
Enjoy a Great Walk
Take a walk around Büyükada to explore its natural beauty and vibrant atmosphere. During the summer months, colorful flowers adorn the island. However, be cautious of fast-moving horse carriages.
Heybeliada
Heybeliada Island is the second-largest island of the Princes’ Islands after Büyükada. Heybeliada has magical pine woods and hills, which are perfect for walking alongside several Victorian-era buildings and homes. It is less crowded than its larger neighbor Büyükada, but there are plenty of decent hotels for those wishing to spend more than a day on this island.
When you step off the ferry, the vast Maritime Cadet School dominates the beach to the left. On the school grounds, there are two fascinating examples of architecture. One is Kamariotissa, the island’s only surviving Byzantine church and an important relic from before the conquest of Constantinople. The other is the burial site of Edward Barton, an English diplomat sent to Constantinople by Queen Elizabeth I of England. He chose to live on Heybeliada to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.
Rent a Bike or Electric Scooter
If you’re not a fan of walking, you can rent a bike or electric scooter and enjoy cycling around the island. There are plenty of rental shops to help you enhance your experience on Heybeliada. Prices may vary depending on the season and demand.
Visit Hagios Giorgios Monastery
Visiting the Hagios Giorgios Monastery, located on a 203-meter-high hill known as Yücetepe, is one of the most popular activities on Büyükada. To reach the monastery, you’ll need to hike up a short trail. The hill is about a 30-minute bike ride from the central jetty, so plan your visit accordingly.
The monastery complex itself is simple, but the breathtaking views from the balcony make the hike worthwhile. The main feature of the complex is a small church, and most visitors also enjoy the restaurant at Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu.
Every year on April 23rd, the holy day of Saint George, thousands of pilgrims visit the church. Their rituals include lighting candles, walking the path barefoot, and untangling wool strings along the way. Be mindful of your attire if you plan to enter the church.
Burgazada
Burgazada is not as large as Büyükada or Heybeliada, with a territory of just 1.5 square kilometers. It is the third island located after Kınalıada. Demetrius I of Macedon, one of Alexander the Great’s successors, built a fortress here and named it after his father, Antigonus I Monophthalmus. The island’s name later evolved into Burgazada, which translates to “Fortress Island” in Turkish.
Burgazada is known for its serene and quiet atmosphere, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a peaceful getaway from Istanbul. Very few visitors opt to explore this tranquil island, making it a hidden gem for relaxation.
The island was home to the famous writer Sait Faik Abasıyanık, whose house is now a museum. You can also see a bronze statue of him at his favorite restaurant in Kalpazankaya. Historically, the island had a significant Jewish population until the mid-20th century.
Kınalıada
Kınalıada is the smallest of the archipelago’s four main islands and is less forested. It is the closest island to Istanbul’s coastline and the only island with a proper beach. The name Kınalıada is derived from “kına” (henna in Turkish) and “ada” (island), referring to the reddish color of its soil.
Kınalıada is especially popular with Istanbul’s Armenian community, who visit the island to enjoy its beach. Visitors can swim or relax on the beach chairs. However, compared to the other three islands, there are fewer activities to do here beyond enjoying the beach.
Timing
The ferry schedules vary throughout the year. During the warmer months, ferries operate daily from morning until 6 PM to accommodate tourists. In colder months, services may be limited to specific days of the week (e.g., four days a week). Check the schedules in advance to plan your trip accordingly.
Further Notes
- Board ferries that leave earlier in the day to avoid large crowds on the islands.
- If you have an Istanbulkart, you can pay less for ferry rides.
- Always check ferry timetables to ensure you don’t miss the last departure.
