Ani, an ancient Armenian city located in the Turkish province of Kars, has witnessed centuries of fascinating history and changes. Once one of the world’s biggest cities before falling to a Mongol invasion and a devastating earthquake, Ani’s legacy continues to offer a unique experience for visitors.
Today, Ani stands as a testament to Armenian cultural, religious, and national heritage. Its remarkable remnants – from residential, religious, and military structures to palaces and fortifications – showcase sophisticated masonry and Gothic influences that make it a must-visit historical gem. The ruins reflect the former splendor and majesty of Ani, a source of pride for both Armenians and travelers exploring Eastern Turkey.
Location
Strategically positioned in a triangular formation on a sheltered plateau, Ani is located in northeastern Turkey, about 45 km from the modern city of Kars. Nestled at an altitude of approximately 1,340 meters, Ani benefits from dramatic panoramic views and a naturally defensive setting – bordered by the Akhurian River to the east and the Bostanlar Valley to the west, forming a natural boundary with Armenia. This commanding hilltop site once served as an impregnable fortress of the Armenian Kamsarakan dynasty.
Monuments and Architectural Marvels
Ani’s architectural treasures are renowned for their distinctive colors – creamy yellow, rose red, and jet black – created with locally quarried volcanic and tufa basalt. These materials allowed sculptors to achieve detailed carving quickly, leaving behind monumental examples of medieval craftsmanship.
The Cathedral (Surp Asdvadzadzin)
Also known as the Church of the Holy Mother of God, this cathedral was designed by the famed medieval Armenian architect Trdat. Originally constructed as a domed basilica between 989 and 1001 (another account suggests 1010), the majestic dome unfortunately collapsed in 1319. Inside, the pointed arches and clustered piers evoke the sophistication of Gothic architecture, captivating visitors with every detail.
The Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents
Built during the reign of the Zakarids by the influential Armenian merchant Tigran Honents, this church is one of Ani’s best-preserved buildings. Completed in 1215, its grand entrance immediately captivates you. Exquisitely carved stone reliefs – featuring both real and mythical creatures – grace all four sides of the exterior. Inside, an extensive mural cycle depicts the life of Saint Gregory the Illuminator in the eastern section and the life of Christ in the central nave, a unique artistic endeavor in Armenian ecclesiastical art.
The Church of the Holy Redeemer
Completed in 1036, the Church of the Holy Redeemer stood virtually intact until a storm in 1955 caused significant damage. Designed by Prince Abolgharib Pahlavi, this remarkable structure was believed to house a fragment of the True Cross. Its design is unusual – featuring 19 sides on the exterior, 8 apses within, and a magnificent main dome that rises from an imposing drum.
The Church of St. Gregory of the Abughamrents
Dating back to the late tenth century, this smaller church encompasses six tower-like structures. It served as the private chapel for the Pahlavuni family, who are interred within its walls. Its dome, gracefully perched upon a drum, remains a striking aspect of the design.
Planning Your Visit
Even if you do not have a personal vehicle, reaching Ani is quite straightforward. Shared taxis operate regularly from local hotels, and if your day begins early (say around 10:30 am), you might even enjoy a morning stroll in Kars before heading out. Booking a hotel near the Citadel, a dug hill that offers easy access, is a smart option if you want to make the most of your free time.
Inside the Citadel, you can explore the ruins of several ancient churches, including the Church of the Palace from the 7th or 8th century, the oldest structure of Ani. Don’t forget to bring your camera; the elevated viewpoint offers breathtaking views of the entire city and its enchanting landscapes. A small coffee shop tucked within one of the ruins by the river provides the perfect spot to pause and unwind.
Typically, if you stay at a well-located hotel near the Citadel, it takes about 45 minutes by taxi from Kars to Ani. Most tours allot around three hours for exploring the ruins, so plan your visit accordingly to capture every detail of this historical marvel.
What to Bring
To fully enjoy exploring Ani’s vast open-air museum, pack these essentials:
Comfortable Walking Shoes
A reliable pair of walking shoes is a must for navigating the uneven paths between ruins and exploring the intricate details of these historical sites.
Breathable Shirts
As the sun climbs high and warms the region, light and breathable shirts will keep you comfortable while you discover every corner of Ani.
Lightweight Waterproof Jacket
The weather in Eastern Turkey can be unpredictable. A portable, waterproof jacket ensures you stay dry during unexpected showers or gusts of wind.
Bottled Water
Long walks require proper hydration. Bring bottled water, as access to drinking water on-site can be limited.
How to Get There and Where to Stay?
Ani can be reached by various means from different cities in Turkey. Daily buses from Van to Kars run every morning – the journey takes approximately 7 to 8 hours. For a shorter trip, buses and trains from Erzurum to Kars offer travel times between 3 to 4 hours. Once in Kars, taxis or shared rides make the final journey to Ani both convenient and affordable.
Accommodation Options
When it comes to accommodation in Turkey, you have plenty of options to suit every budget. For a luxurious stay, consider Hotel Kent Ani – an upscale option in Eastern Turkey that guarantees a comfortable retreat after your long day of exploration. Alternatively, there are numerous budget-friendly hotels along the main street if you prefer something more economical. Regardless of your selection, staying close to the Citadel or Kars offers easy access to Ani’s historical treasures.
We hope your journey to Ani is filled with unforgettable moments and that you share your experiences with us.
